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  #11  
Old 02-05-2012
Liam Liam is offline
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Pretty sure the AC cuts out as a precaution once the engine gets to a certain temperature to avoid it overheating futher, I'd check the fan as others have said and re-bleed the system again
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  #12  
Old 02-05-2012
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GASSED GU GASSED GU is offline
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^^^thats correct mate but the ac fan should still be running as they use that to aid the cooling process to bring it back to standard operating temperature
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  #13  
Old 02-05-2012
westaustroopy westaustroopy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Norton View Post
Hey guys I've got a 99 GU wagon with a TD42t - 250,000kms

Since recently doing a fair bit of work to her she's developed a cooling problem.

Before the work the temp gauge used to sit just over 1/4 rain hail or shine, including towing a trailer at 120km up hills etc.
However now at 100km it sits at half and when driving up hills at 110km it can easily get up to 3/4 or slightly higher (And sometimes will cut the AC out) Back off to 90-100km and it cools straight back to 1/2

The Work which has been completed:

Cooling system..
New Radiator (Std spec one)
New water pump
Tried 2 different brand new thermostats
New fan hub and belt
New hoses and coolant
Engine Block flushed

Other things..
Ironman steel bullbar
2x Lightforce 240's
2" Lift
33" At's
Roofrack with spare tyre on roof
Safari Snorkel

Things its not doing..
Not loosing coolant
Not using oil
No oil in coolant etc
Not pumping noticeable amounts of black smoke
Not cooling the engine

I have recently relocated to Broome which was the reason why I decided to have the cooling system overhauled to improve reliability. Watching Grandad's tow their huge caravans and massive boats all over the Kimberly with no issues is starting to frustrate me! : (



Any ideas???

Cheers
Norton
1 thing to try is to set the rear of your bonnet up 5 mm so that the heat in the engine bay can escape you will notice a slight drop in temp. And as the others said check the radiator is suited for your car and flush it several times then bleed it. Hope this helps
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  #14  
Old 03-05-2012
Mmarcuss Mmarcuss is offline
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G'day mate. A problem with these engines is the thermostat. The engine is a bypass type cooling system meaning coolant flows through the engine when cold and bypasses the radiator.

Now the standard thermostat has to open 9mm until all the coolant is directed through the radiator.

If you head to coventries and pick up thermostat part number

TT228-180 or
TT2028-180 (high flow)

These thermostats are slightly longer and only have to open 5mm till all the coolant flows through the radiator.

This is all information that I've gotten off another forum and have used it on my own car and made a huge difference.

Other than your thermostat make sure the radiator is good, all the shroud is there including the small bit at the bottom, system has been bleed properly and the viscous hub is working.
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  #15  
Old 03-05-2012
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Hang on how do you bleed the air out of a diesel 4.2 Nissan ,, my gq , has the 3/8 hose from the top of the thermostat housing to the radiator cap , I spose it's self bleeding ,, all Nissan diesel 4.2 have the same radiator you cant get the wrong one ,, the inlet and outlet are different to petrols ,,
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  #16  
Old 03-05-2012
Mmarcuss Mmarcuss is offline
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Yep yours will self bleed. Some have a butterfly valve on the thermostat housing that you have to crack open. So just fill it up turn the heater tap on and work as much air out as you can squeezing the bottom hose. Then run it up to temp and keep topping up until radiator is full and overflow full.

With regards to radiators you can get a 2 core or a 3 core. The 2 core has been known to cool better as there is less restriction for the air to flow over the fins.

EDIT : Also when you say block flushed was the drain bung behind the exhaust manifold taken out and the heater tap turned on to flush. If not do this and keep flushing until all water that comes out of the engine is spotless
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  #17  
Old 03-05-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mmarcuss View Post
Yep yours will self bleed. Some have a butterfly valve on the thermostat housing that you have to crack open. So just fill it up turn the heater tap on and work as much air out as you can squeezing the bottom hose. Then run it up to temp and keep topping up until radiator is full and overflow full.

With regards to radiators you can get a 2 core or a 3 core. The 2 core has been known to cool better as there is less restriction for the air to flow over the fins.

I was just being sarcastic about the bleeding , the only time I seen a bleed nipple was on my old gq 4.2 petrol , carbie model that was on the thermostat housing , fuel injection has it at the manifold , gq diesels have that 3/8 hose , I don't know what the gu series models have so no comment on that one , I thought a 3 core radiator is better than a 2 core ,,
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  #18  
Old 03-05-2012
Mmarcuss Mmarcuss is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stalker View Post
I was just being sarcastic about the bleeding , the only time I seen a bleed nipple was on my old gq 4.2 petrol , carbie model that was on the thermostat housing , fuel injection has it at the manifold , gq diesels have that 3/8 hose , I don't know what the gu series models have so no comment on that one , I thought a 3 core radiator is better than a 2 core ,,
Ah righto no worries. It's surprising the amount of people who don't know how to bleed a cooling system so I assumed.
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  #19  
Old 03-05-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mmarcuss View Post
Ah righto no worries. It's surprising the amount of people who don't know how to bleed a cooling system so I assumed.
X2 ,,, and you would assume right ,
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  #20  
Old 07-05-2012
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Thanks for all of the responses guys, I've now got a long list of things to check/change. I'll let you know if anything I try fixes the problem.

Thanks again, Matt.
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